Stained Concrete Chicago - How to Use Acid Stain, Concrete Dyes, & Decorative Concrete Floor Staining Products

	*Doing It Yourself*
	Stained concrete is a growing trend in basement flooring. So a basement, or even a garage floor, is a good place to start with your first DIY concrete staining project. Concrete staining products fall into 1 of 4 categories: dyes, acrylic stains, tinted sealers, and acid stains. Good technologies have been developed and are available for each. Dyes, acrylic stains, and tinted sealers are easier to apply than acid stains but can fade and lose adhesion over time, requiring reapplication. Acid stains are trickier to apply but are more permanent and have the more genuine look of marble or other forms of natural stone. Dyes, acrylic stains, and tinted sealers also come in both water and solvent based versions. Solvent based versions always have a strong odor but result in better penetration and adhesion. Here are some tips:
	• If using acrylic concrete stain or tinted concrete sealer, acid etch or make sure your concrete is the profile of medium grit sandpaper • If using acid based concrete stain, carefully test the entire concrete surface with water and make sure no areas resist absorption • If the surface resists water at all, or has a sheen to it, find out whether a curing compound or waterproofing treatment was used • Stripping large areas of paint, glue, or adhesive does not always leave concrete clean enough to stain; diamond grinding is best • Small areas are most effectively stripped with water-based, and environmentally friendly Removall from Napier • Before staining, download the concrete stain manufacturer's tech data sheet from their web site, and follow those instructions exactly • A pump up sprayer is needed for acid staining applications; you may also use an HVLP type sprayer for dyes or other types of stains • Many cement patching compounds contain polymer & don't take stain well; we recommend Cement All available at Home Depot • Always use joints or saw cuts to separate colors in a border or design; concrete stains will bleed under tape or caulk • Use at least 3 coats of concrete sealer to protect your stained concrete & do not seal until the surface, joints, and cuts are completely dry • Always use a solvent based acrylic ("lacquer") or silane ("water repellent") sealer outside & a water or solvent based acrylic sealer inside • Only use urethane or epoxy sealers inside, with dry concrete, when wear conditions require it, and if you have experience applying them • Painting concrete is a BAD idea, even with concrete paints; they have poor adhesion & durability and will eventually peel or flake • Be very careful of any stain companies not listed below . This industry is not regulated, and there are a lot of bad products on the market.

Chicago Area Stain, Dye & Sealer Suppliers	National Stain, Dye & Sealer Manufacturers	National Manufacturers of Pump up Sprayers	*Helpful DIY Web Sites*
Concrete Clinic McCann Industries Henry Frerk Sons Glenrock Company Sherwin Williams White Cap	Artcrete (acid stain) Superstone (acid stain) Solomon Colors (acid stain) EZChem (acid stain) Miracote (acid stain) Butterfield Color (acid stain) Concrete Coatings (acid stain) H&C (acid & acrylic) Superdeck (acrylic stain) Floric Polytech (acrylic stain) Prosoco (sealers) *Glaze-N-Seal (sealers)*	SP Systems (best) RL FloMaster Chapin International H.D. Hudson	Decorative Concrete Forums Gaye Goodman Staining Forum Acid Staining Tech Data Sheet Acid Stain Secrets Training DVD *Benefits of Acid Stained Concrete*

		Preferred Contractor:
	*Hiring an Installer*

	Most people understand the importance of hiring a good contractor for their construction or home improvement project. But for the best results with stained concrete, you can't get by with just a good contractor: you really need a skilled and experienced one. There is an art to concrete staining, and you generally get only one attempt at it. Fixes are costly, time consuming, and not always possible. To ensure that you hire the best contractor for your stained concrete project, you should complete these checklists:
	*A. The Basics:*
	• make sure your contractor has liability insurance to cover for accidents or poor project results • ensure that they stain floors full time, not in addition to painting, drywall, or another business • review photos of their work; confirm that the photos are theirs and not on loan from a manufacturer • get references if possible, and check to see if customers are satisfied with the outcome of their project • consult on site with your installer to walk through the project space, clarify design details, & do samples • get a formal written proposal that outlines all the work to be included, not just a verbal or email quote

• when evaluating bids, make sure to compare the number of coats of stain, sealer, & floor finish, and type of stain and sealer being used
• expect that a professional concrete staining contractor will take at least 4 to 5 days to complete a quality stained concrete project

		*B. Finding the Best:*
		• contractor should be willing to do several sealed color samples on your floor to choose from • contractor should be prepared to provide lien waivers during the project in accord with Illinois law • company should have a professional looking web site: this shows the pride they take in their work • that web site should appear on the first few pages of a major search engine (Google, Yahoo, MSN) result related to "stained concrete"; this is a good indicator of the company's reputability • company should have few or no complaints with Chicago Better Business Bureau • be prepared to pay extra; like anything else, the best contractors charge more for high quality & attention to detail

	*Optimizing the Staining Potential of New Concrete*
	It isn't always the case, but if you know before your concrete is poured that you want to stain it, there are certain steps you can take to optimize the potential of your concrete for coloring with acid stain or other types of concrete stains and dyes. Here are some basic rules of thumb and good online references to make your concrete contractor aware of:
	• Maximize the cement content of the concrete, using a five or six sack mix • Limit or preclude the use of pozzolans, such as fly ash, silica fume, and metakaolin • Use clean, washed aggregate in the concrete mix; this will prevent unsightly surface staining
	• Avoid calcium chloride based accelerators; they often leave permanent dark spotting and patterning on concrete • Specify a light hard trowel finish; burnishing or excessively power troweling will densify and/or darekn the surface and hinder staining • Avoid liquid curing membranes at all costs; they have to be removed from the surface before staining concrete • Wet cure with HydraCure covers, or by spraying with water twice daily for 5 days; this will increase concrete strength, density, & durability • Use a heavy duty protective covering during any subsequent construction process to avoid damage to the concrete • Not using a covering will mean several more days of surface preparation & add thousands to the cost of your project • It will also mean more aggressive surface preparation methods that may negatively impact the staining results • Be extremely careful of solvent-based products: these are often spilled on new concrete by other trades & leave PERMANENT white spots! • Do not place drywall, framing, lumber, or other large objects on concrete during curing; they will leave dark patterns beneath • Cracking adds character to stained concrete but can be entirely avoided using CTS' fiber & expansive cement system • Refer to these position statements by the Decorative Concrete Council: Acid Staining and other Decorative Concrete issues

Maintenance of Stained Concrete

Nothing in our world of constant activity and harsh, changing weather conditions is maintenance free. But one of the great benefits and advantages of stained concrete over other types of floor coverings is its high durability and relatively easy, low maintenance. By following several basic principles, and investing a regular but limited amount of effort, stained concrete can retain its original, beautiful appearance indefinitely. Effective stained concrete maintenance is easy and affordable, done by either the owner or an installer.

	Concrete stainers preparing to dust mop an acid stained concrete floor before applying floor finish	*A. Interior*
		• Use a vacuum, broom, or micro fiber dust mop daily or weekly to prevent dust accumulation • Wooster has a great new dust mop for stained concrete: Dust Eater; as does Norton: BlueMagnet • The Shark VX3 costs a little more but is a great new lightweight cordless vacuum for hard surfaces • Damp mop monthly using a ph neutral cleaner diluted in cool water to restore gloss • Recoat with new floor finish (matte or gloss) periodically to rebuild loss from cleaning & abrasion • Most stain manufacturers (above) carry or recommend floor finishes to be used with their product • Exercise caution before placing stationary objects or materials on a stained concrete floor • Use felt, fabric, or quality rubber under objects that are heavy or have plastic or acrylic backing • Expanded Technologies has a great selection of high quality furniture pads and sliders • Be vigilant of painters; they often damage stained concrete with tape, paint, and solvents • Maintain clean, heavy fabric mats at exterior entrances; this will reduce dirt by 85% • Refer to more detailed stained concrete floor care & maintenance instructions here

	*B. Exterior*
	• Waxes and floor finishes are not meant to be used outdoors; they will whiten or discolor • To maximize durability and gloss retention, use a high quality solvent acrylic sealer or "lacquer" • The sun's UV rays degrade even the best clear sealers, so recoating every year or two is a MUST • Light pressure wash (3,000 psi or less) the surface periodically to remove dirt, oils, and other debris • Use the same rules about objects as with interiors: no tape or solvents, and be careful of plastic • Be careful also of runoff water from plants which may contain tannins or fertilizer and discolor sealer • Any excess moisture on the surface or in the concrete may cause the sealer to temporarily whiten or "blush" • Persistent whitening may be cleared by misting or brushing xylene or lacquer thinner on the sealer surface • Expect dyes, acrylic stains, & tinted sealers to eventually peel & fade outside, and require reapplication • Constant shadowing from trees or other stationary objects may also cause these products to fade unevenly • The most effective and permanent outdoor coloring is achieved with acid stains or integral color • Avoid blue and green acid stains outside; they will eventually blacken (permanently) from excess moisture

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